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Austria: Reflections

The Austrian wine movement has experienced an impressive surge in quality over the last 30 yearstaste went in the direction of a freshness reminiscent of Rhine wines rather than one embracing the impetuousness and decisiveness of Danube wines.
Most Austrian wines are produced in the Weinland Osterreich, east of the countryan area around Vienna, where the Alps meet the Pannonian plain, in the direction of Hungary. The terrain is picture-postcard, with rift fields and others covered in thick vegetation, steep cliffs along the Danube and scrub reeds around Lake Neusiedler. The soil is rich in slate and sand, loess and gneiss.
The climate tends to be continental and consequently the yield modest, but the result is powerful and fruity wines.
North of Vienna we find the wooded countryside of Weinviertelbeautiful landscape, and home to some of the best red wines in the country, especially when it comes to Mailberga valley rich in loess and sand.
To the west of Vienna are some of the most important wine-producing areas in Austria: Wachau, Kamptal and Kremastal.
Wachau is an incredible mosaic of different soils and rocks, a meeting point of southern and northern climates, home of fine white wines, and was the first Austrian region to really assert itself on the market; Kamptal and Kremastal produce wines that are very similar in quality and personalityand once cheaper, but now renowned and no longer cheap.
South of Vienna we find what we personally consider to be the consecration region of autrian wine in a modern keythe Burgenland, the destination of all young Austrian producers, especially those with a biodynamic view of viticulture. It stretches around the shores of the immense lake Neusiedlerwhich certainly due to the conformation of the area, practically flat, would not indicate a large wine region. Yet the wine of the entire area is dominant within Austria's total production, and the high quality red wine takes centre stage.
Austria remains a land of white wines, and in fact 65% of production is represented by this type, with the Gruner Veltliner to dominate in terms of hectares under vines, followed by Riesling and Riesling Italico. However, the market demands fresh red wines and so the areas planted with Blaufrankisch, Zweigelt and Sankt Laurentwith the latter taking space away from the bland Blauer Portugieser.
The total number of hectares under vine is approximately 50000 for a production of about 2.5 million hectolitres per year and a strongly growing export value, but still far behind the dominant countries, which stands at around 230 million per year.

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