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Germany: Reflections

After a rather uncertain end to the last century, German wine has found new life and managed to win back the favour of the international market thanks to the unique qualities of its wines in terms of freshness, vitality and elegance. This is absolutely due to the new generation of German producers, who are able to amaze the market with their interpretations. Speaking objectively and turning away from the country's most famous areas, one cannot fail to notice that most German vineyards are located at inaccessible longitudes for proper grape ripening and that some soils are so unsuitable for agriculture that without vines they would be forests. Yet, thanks to incredible pedoclimatic coincidences here some of the world's best white wines are bornin perfect balance between acidity and sugar. If the first element is excessive, the wine turns sour; if the second is, it becomes flat.
Don't get us wrong, German sweet wines are gems, but the market is going the other way and so this new generation of German winegrowers has been able to interpret the change in demand in such a way as to give the entire German wine movement new lustre. And now most of the production is trocken.
Luck, read climate change, has gone to the side of this new generation attracted by the possibility of revaluing historic vineyards, and now benefits from more mature and healthy grapes, and this has also allowed them to express themselves in terms of more alcoholically charged products.
Obviously the Riesling is the country's queen grape, followed by Muller Thurgau and Sylvanerwhich is gaining hectares and climbing the rankings thanks to its earthy, vegetal note. In fourth place is Dornfelder, a grape recently rediscovered in terms of quality. The only region where the Pinot family (known here as Burgunder) is still in first place in terms of hectares under vine is the Pfalz region, among other things the one with the best winemaking tradition in terms of the red wine produced, here truly delicious.
Among other things Pfalz is the experimental laboratory of the German wine movementwith the vast majority of producers oriented towards the naturalness and sustainability of the product.
Among the most important areas obviously the first is the Moselle and its tributarieswhere at every bend in the river the conditions, and therefore the result, change dramatically. Juggling these, some of the most incredible wines on the planet are born.
The alter ego of the Moselle is the Rhine, or at least, we have always seen it that way. Depth and austerity characterise the greatest wines of the terriory, gems to be admired and waited for. Western and Eastern Rheingau and Rheinassenall with their own peculiarities are capable of delivering memorable products.
And then there is Baden, the southernmost German wine region, and the one that is benefiting most from the climate change mentioned above. Production here converges on extremely dry, French-style wines that are very gastronomic indeed.
Germany's hectares under vine are just over 100000, of which almost 70% is white berry, for a production of almost 14 million hectolitres per year to which corresponds an export value quantifiable at around 3 billion euro, with a truly impressive growth compared to the previous decade.assignor.

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Grapevine

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